Fayoum, Egypt: Valley of the Whales, Wadi El Rayan and Lake Qarun

What is there to do in Fayoum? Fayoum, or El Fayoum, is a large oasis about 100 km southwest of Cairo and the easiest desert escape from the capital. Its highlights are Wadi Al-Hitan, the “Valley of the Whales,” a UNESCO World Heritage Site where 40-million-year-old whale skeletons lie in the open desert; the lakes and waterfalls of Wadi El Rayan; Lake Qarun, one of the oldest lakes in the world; the pottery village of Tunis; and pyramids older than those at Giza. This guide covers each place, how to get there from Cairo, how long to stay and the best time to go.

Planning a trip? See our Egypt travel guide, things to do in Cairo and the best places to visit in Egypt.

Fayoum at a glance

Wadi Al-Hitan, the Valley of the Whales

Wadi Al-Hitan is the reason most people come to Fayoum. Around 40 million years ago this desert was the floor of an ocean, and the valley holds hundreds of fossil skeletons of early whales, some with tiny hind legs. UNESCO listed it in 2005 because it shows, better than anywhere else, how whales evolved from land animals into ocean mammals.

• The open-air trail: a marked path leads past whale skeletons, fossil shells and mangrove roots lying where they were found.
• The Fossils and Climate Change Museum: a domed museum opened in 2016, built around an almost complete whale skeleton.
• Wind-carved rocks: sandstone formations shaped like mushrooms and animals, glowing orange at sunset.
• Stargazing: camping is possible at the site, far from city lights.

The valley lies inside the Wadi El Rayan Protected Area, and the last stretch of the road is a desert track. Most visitors go with a local guide or a tour.

Wadi El Rayan: lakes, waterfalls and dunes

Wadi El Rayan is a protected desert valley with two large lakes linked by a channel and a series of small waterfalls, a rare sight in Egypt and a favorite weekend spot for Cairo families.

• The waterfalls: walk along the rocks between the upper and lower lakes, with cafés nearby.
• The dunes: sandboarding and 4×4 drives on the golden dunes around the lakes.
• Magic Lake: a lake among the dunes whose color changes through the day.
• Wildlife: desert foxes, gazelles and migrating birds in winter.

Lake Qarun and Tunis Village

Lake Qarun is a large saltwater lake on the northern edge of the oasis, the remnant of the ancient Lake Moeris. Fishermen still work its shallows, and egrets and flamingos gather there in winter.

On the hill above the lake, Tunis Village is a green, quiet village of mud-brick houses and pottery workshops. Its pottery tradition began with a school founded by the Swiss potter Evelyne Porret, and local families now make and sell their own ceramics. It is the best place in Fayoum for lunch, a stroll and an overnight stay in a guesthouse.

Pyramids and ancient sites

Fayoum was one of the first farming regions of ancient Egypt, and it has sites that few tourists ever see.

• The Meidum Pyramid: a dramatic, tower-like pyramid from the start of the Fourth Dynasty, linked to the reign of Sneferu, on the road between Cairo and Fayoum.
• The Hawara Pyramid: the mud-brick pyramid of Amenemhat III, near the site of the famous “Labyrinth” described by Greek writers.
• Karanis: the ruins of a Greco-Roman town on the edge of the desert, with temples and a small museum.
• Qasr Qarun: a well-preserved Ptolemaic temple at the western end of the lake.
• The Fayum portraits: lifelike painted mummy portraits from Roman times were found here. See examples at the Egyptian Museum in Tahrir.

How to get to Fayoum

The easiest way to visit Fayoum is by car with a driver or on a day tour from Cairo, because the main sites are spread out and public transport does not reach them.

• From Cairo: about two hours by road to Fayoum city, and longer to Wadi Al-Hitan and Wadi El Rayan.
• From Giza: leave early from the pyramids area to avoid Cairo traffic.
• Combining trips: Fayoum can be added on the way to Bahariya and the White Desert, or done as an overnight trip with a night in Tunis Village. See our White Desert guide.

Tips for visiting

• Go between October and April. Summer is very hot in the desert.
• Start early to fit in Wadi Al-Hitan, the waterfalls and Lake Qarun in one day.
• Bring water, sun protection and cash for entry tickets, cafés and pottery.
• Don’t touch the fossils or take anything from Wadi Al-Hitan.
• Weekends are busy at the waterfalls; weekdays are quieter.

Travel with a local guide

Simsem’s local hosts run day trips to Fayoum from Cairo:

Meet every host on our local guides in Egypt page.

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