Hama and Apamea: The Norias and Syria’s Great Colonnade

What is Hama famous for? Its norias, the giant wooden water wheels that have turned on the Orontes River for centuries, creaking as they lift water into old aqueducts. Hama is a calm, conservative city in central Syria, between Damascus and Aleppo, and the norias are turning again in 2026. It is also the base for Apamea, one of the great Roman cities of the Middle East, whose Great Colonnade is among the longest ever built. This guide covers the norias, Apamea, the castle of Shaizar, what to eat and how to plan a visit.

Planning a trip? Read our complete Syria travel guide, our honest answer to is Syria safe to visit? and meet our local guides in Syria.

Hama and Apamea at a glance

The norias of Hama

The norias are wooden water wheels, some of them around 20 meters across, built to lift water from the Orontes River into aqueducts that once irrigated the gardens and supplied the city. Water wheels have turned here for well over a thousand years, and the wheels have been repaired and rebuilt many times by local craftsmen.

About seventeen norias survive along the river in and around the city. They stopped for years when the river ran low and the wheels fell into disrepair, but Syrian state media reported in May 2026 that the Orontes was flowing again and the norias were turning. Stand beside one of the large wheels in the center of town to hear the deep groan of the wood that gives the norias their fame.

The city of Hama

Hama is a quieter and more conservative city than Damascus or Aleppo, and a pleasant place to slow down. The riverbanks are lined with gardens and cafés where families gather in the evening.

Much of the old city was destroyed in 1982, when the government of Hafez al-Assad crushed an uprising here, killing thousands of people. Some historic buildings survive, including the Azem Palace of Hama, an 18th-century Ottoman residence. Be thoughtful when the subject comes up with residents: it remains a painful memory.

Apamea and its Great Colonnade

Apamea, about 55 km northwest of Hama above the Ghab plain, was one of the largest cities of Roman Syria. Its Great Colonnade, the main street of the city, ran for nearly 2 km and is one of the longest colonnaded streets of the ancient world.

Many columns still stand in long rows, some with twisted fluting, and the sense of scale is extraordinary. Apamea also suffered heavily during the war: satellite images showed thousands of looting pits dug across the site, and some sections of columns have fallen. Visitors in 2025 reported that the colonnade is still standing but that the site is largely unsupervised. Go with a guide and stay on the main paths.

Shaizar castle and the countryside

Shaizar is a medieval castle on a ridge above the Orontes, northwest of Hama, often visited on the way to Apamea. It was the seat of the Banu Munqidh family, whose most famous member, the 12th-century writer Usama ibn Munqidh, wrote one of the best-known accounts of life during the Crusades.

The countryside around Hama is green and fertile in spring, with villages, orchards and wide views across the Ghab plain, and it is a good place for a relaxed day of picnics and village life with a local host.

What to eat in Hama

Hama’s signature dish is a sweet: halawet el-jibn, soft rolls of sweet cheese dough filled with cream and topped with pistachios and syrup. Hama and nearby Homs both claim it as their own. Try it in a local sweet shop, alongside the usual Syrian mezze and grills. Read more in our guide to Syrian food.

How to plan your visit

Hama works well as a stop on the road between Damascus and Aleppo, or as a day trip with a driver.

• Getting there: about 210 km from Damascus on the main highway through Homs, around 2.5 to 3 hours with checkpoints.
• Combine: the norias in the morning, Apamea and Shaizar in the afternoon, back in Hama for the evening by the river.
• Dress: Hama is conservative. Cover shoulders and knees, and women may want to cover their hair in the old city.
• Cash: bring Syrian pounds and US dollars; cards are rarely accepted.
• Safety: Western governments advise against all travel to Syria. Travel with a local guide and read our Syria safety guide.

Travel with a local guide

Simsem’s hosts in Hama province run heritage days and countryside escapes:

See every host and tour on our local guides in Syria page.

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