Palmyra, Syria: What Survived and How to Visit

Can you visit Palmyra? Yes. The ancient city in the Syrian desert has been open to visitors since Syria reopened to tourism in 2025, although very few people go and the site carries deep scars. Palmyra, or Tadmor in Arabic, was one of the richest caravan cities of the Roman world, and its Great Colonnade and Roman theater still stand. Several of its greatest monuments, including the Temple of Bel and the Monumental Arch, were blown up by the Islamic State group in 2015. This guide explains what you can see today, what was lost, how visitors get there from Damascus or Homs and the safety rules that matter on site.

Before you go, read our honest answer to is Syria safe to visit?, our Syria visa guide and the complete Syria travel guide.

Palmyra at a glance

A short history of Palmyra

Palmyra grew rich as a stop on the caravan routes that crossed the desert between the Mediterranean and Mesopotamia. Its merchants traded silk, spices and perfume, and by the 1st and 2nd centuries AD the city had become one of the most important in the Roman East, mixing Greek, Roman, Persian and local Aramaic traditions in its art and architecture.

In the 3rd century, Queen Zenobia of Palmyra broke away from Rome and briefly ruled an empire stretching from Egypt to Anatolia, until the emperor Aurelian defeated her in 272 and the city declined. Its ruins, standing alone in the desert next to a palm oasis, made Palmyra one of the most famous archaeological sites in the Middle East.

What survived and what was destroyed

Palmyra suffered some of the worst cultural destruction of the Syrian war. The Islamic State group held the city in 2015 and again in 2016 and 2017, deliberately destroying monuments and killing Khaled al-Asaad, the site’s veteran head of antiquities. Here is the state of the main monuments today.

Some of Palmyra’s treasures can now be seen in Damascus. The Lion of al-Lat, a great stone lion that guarded a temple in Palmyra, was damaged in 2015, restored and is now displayed at the National Museum of Damascus.

What to see in Palmyra today

Even after the destruction, Palmyra is an extraordinary place to stand. A visit usually follows this route.

• The Great Colonnade: walk the long colonnaded street that crossed the city, lined with columns and brackets that once held statues of its leading citizens.
• The Roman theater: a semicircle of stone seats and a stage building just off the colonnade.
• The Temple of Bel enclosure: the vast walled courtyard and gateway of what was the city’s main temple, now empty at the center.
• The agora and public buildings around the colonnade, where the city’s markets and councils met.
• The Valley of the Tombs: the tower tombs on the western slopes, where Palmyra’s families buried their dead. The late afternoon light here is beautiful.
• Fakhr al-Din al-Ma’ani castle: the 17th-century hilltop castle above the ruins, for the view over the whole site and the palm oasis at sunset.

How to get to Palmyra

Palmyra is a long drive across the desert, and there is no public transport worth relying on. Visitors go by private car with a driver or with a tour.

• From Damascus: about 215 km, around 3.5 to 4 hours, via the Homs highway and then the desert road east.
• From Homs: about 150 km, around two hours across open desert. Fill up with fuel in Homs.
• Checkpoints: the town and archaeological zone are under military administration, and there are checkpoints on the road in. Keep your passport and visa with you.
• Where to stay: the hotels that served Palmyra before the war were destroyed, and the town is only partly resettled. A few basic guesthouses and family rooms exist; many visitors stay in Homs instead.

Syria has announced plans to turn Palmyra’s military airfield into a civilian airport, but it is not open to passenger flights yet.

Safety rules at Palmyra

Palmyra is in the desert where Islamic State cells were active for years, and the area around it was heavily mined. Take these rules seriously.

• Stay on established paths. Mine clearance is ongoing, and the desert around the site is not safe to wander.
• Go with a guide who knows the current situation. At times visitors are accompanied by an escort or guard.
• Do not climb on damaged structures or move stones.
• Do not photograph military positions or checkpoints. Drones need permission.
• Check official advice. The US, UK, Canada and Australia advise against all travel to Syria. Read our Syria safety guide before you plan the trip.

Tips for visiting

• Stay overnight if you can, so you see the site at sunrise and sunset and avoid two long desert drives in one day.
• Bring water and sun protection. There is almost no shade on site and few services.
• Hire a guide. There is almost no signage, and a guide brings the empty spaces back to life.
• Check entry fees before you go. Entry was free in 2025, but Syria introduced new heritage-site pricing in January 2026.
• Visit the National Museum in Damascus to see the Lion of al-Lat and other pieces from Palmyra.

Travel with a local guide

Simsem’s hosts in Syria run multi-day journeys through the country’s heritage sites, including one that takes you to Palmyra with a local guide:

See every host and tour on our local guides in Syria page.

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