Amman is often the city travelers pass through on the way to Petra — and it deserves more than that. Jordan’s capital was first built on seven hills and now spreads across nineteen, so every neighbourhood has its own view. Roman columns rise above the rooftops on Citadel Hill, a 6,000-seat Roman theatre sits in the middle of downtown, and the streets below are full of souks, falafel counters, sweet shops, murals and cafés. This guide covers the 11 best things to do in Amman — the ancient sights, the museums, the neighborhoods worth walking and the food you shouldn’t leave without trying — plus the easiest day trips from the city.

Amman at a glance

1. The Amman Citadel

Start at the top. The Citadel crowns Jabal al-Qal’a, an L-shaped hill above downtown, and it is considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world. The hill was fortified in the Bronze Age, became the capital of the Ammonite kingdom, and was later held by Assyrians, Babylonians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and the Umayyads.

• The Temple of Hercules (more accurately the Great Temple) — dated by an inscription to 161–166 AD. Look for the marble fragments of a colossal statue — three fingers and an elbow survive — from a figure estimated to have stood about 13 metres tall.
• The Umayyad Palace — built around 735 as the governor’s residence. The dome over its reception hall is a modern reconstruction; next to it is a great round cistern 16 metres across.
• The Byzantine church — a 6th-century church with a preserved mosaic floor.
• The Jordan Archaeological Museum — the museum on the hill, founded in 1951, with finds from prehistory to the 15th century.

From the edge of the hill you look straight down onto the Roman Theatre and across the city’s hillsides. Read our Amman Citadel guide for more.

2. The Roman Theatre

Built into the hillside in the 2nd century AD, when the city was called Philadelphia, the theatre was dedicated in honour of Emperor Antoninus Pius and held around 6,000 spectators. It faces north, so the sun stayed out of the audience’s eyes. Climb to the top rows for the view back up to the Citadel.

Behind the stage, two small museums — the Jordan Folklore Museum and the Jordan Museum of Popular Traditions — occupy the side rooms. The smaller Odeon stands on the other side of the Hashemite Plaza, and the Roman Nymphaeum is a short walk away. The theatre is still used today for events such as concerts and the Amman International Book Fair. See our Roman Theatre guide.

3. Downtown Amman and its souks

Downtown — Al-Balad — is the old heart of the city, in the valley between the hills. This is where to wander without a plan: fruit and vegetable markets, spice and nut stalls, clothes shops, tailors and the smell of fresh bread. At its centre is the Grand Husseini Mosque, which stands on the site of a mosque already described by a 10th-century geographer. Downtown is also where Amman eats: falafel and hummus at Hashem, knafeh at Habibah — see number 10.

4. The Jordan Museum

Jordan’s largest museum, opened in 2014 in the Ras al-Ein district near downtown, takes you from the Stone Age to modern Jordan. Two highlights make it a must: the 9,000-year-old statues from ‘Ain Ghazal, among the oldest human statues ever made, and the Dead Sea Scrolls, including the Copper Scroll. You will also find a reproduction of the Mesha Stele. Our guide to the museums of Amman covers more.

5. Rainbow Street and Souk Jara

Rainbow Street runs east from the First Circle through Jabal Amman, one of the city’s historic neighborhoods. It is lined with cafés, shops and rooftop restaurants, and with houses that tell the story of modern Jordan, including the former residence of King Talal. The Wild Jordan Center is here too. In the warmer months, roughly May to September, the open-air Souk Jara fills a side street near Rainbow Street on Fridays with crafts, food and art — check that it is running before you go. See our Rainbow Street guide.

6. Street art in the old neighborhoods

Some of Amman’s oldest neighborhoods are also its most colourful. Murals cover stairways, walls and whole sides of buildings, from huge portraits to Arabic calligraphy. A guided walk is the best way to find them and to hear the stories behind them — what they say about the city, its young artists and its hip-hop and graffiti scene.

7. Walk the hills and stairways

Amman is a city of hills, and its public stairways link one neighbourhood to the next. Walking them is one of the best free things to do: quiet lanes, old stone houses and sudden views over the rooftops. Our two walking guides suggest routes — the Amman walking trail and routes, tips and local insights.

8. King Abdullah I Mosque

Its blue mosaic dome is one of Amman’s landmarks. Built between 1982 and 1989 in the Abdali area, the mosque is open to tourists. Dress modestly: men need long trousers, and women must cover their heads, arms and legs — a hooded gown is provided free of charge if you need one.

9. The Royal Automobile Museum

Next to the Al Hussein Public Parks, this museum, opened in 2003, tells Jordan’s story through its vehicles — from the cars brought to Amman in 1916 to modern sports cars. It also holds the rover used in the film The Martian.

10. Eat your way through Amman

Amman is one of the best places in Jordan to eat. Have breakfast at Hashem downtown — falafel, hummus and ful at shared tables, served since 1952 — then queue at Habibah for hot knafeh. Try shawarma at Shawerma Reem on the Second Circle, and mansaf at a traditional restaurant. Our guide to Jordanian food explains 25 dishes and where to eat them in Amman, with map links.

11. Day trips from Amman

• Jerash — one of the largest Roman archaeological cities in the world, about 45 km north. See our Jerash guide.
• Madaba and Mount Nebo — the City of Mosaics and the view of Moses, about 30 km south-west. See our Madaba & Mount Nebo guide.
• The Dead Sea — float at the lowest point on earth. See our Dead Sea guide.
• Ajloun — a castle and green forests in the north. See our Ajloun guide.
• Al-Salt — a heritage town of golden stone houses. See our Al-Salt guide.

Planning a longer trip? Start with the best places to visit in Jordan and our Jordan travel tips.

Practical tips

• Getting around: taxis are the easiest way between neighborhoods; Amman also has a bus network, including a Bus Rapid Transit line. The hills make some walks steep — plan routes downhill where you can.
• Combine sights: the Citadel, the Roman Theatre and downtown are close together and make a good first morning; finish on Rainbow Street in the evening.
• Dress: modest clothing is appreciated downtown and essential in mosques.
• Seasons: summers are mild with occasional heatwaves, and winters are cool, with snow now and then.

Local-guided experiences in Amman

Amman FAQ

Sources

• Amman (Wikipedia) — hills, ancient names, Decapolis, Grand Husseini Mosque, climate, transport
• Amman Citadel (Wikipedia) — history, Great Temple, Umayyad Palace, church, cistern, museum
• Roman Theater, Amman (Wikipedia) — date, capacity, orientation, museums, Odeon, Nymphaeum, events
• The Jordan Museum (Wikipedia) — opening, size, ‘Ain Ghazal statues, Dead Sea Scrolls, Mesha Stele
• Rainbow Street (Wikipedia) — location, history, Wild Jordan Center, Souk Jara
• King Abdullah I Mosque (Wikipedia) — dates, dome, visitors, dress code
• Royal Automobile Museum (Wikipedia) — location, opening, collection
• Jordan News — Souk Jara and JD Tours — Souk Jara — Friday market, season